Welcome to Karnataka!
Monday, March 31st, 2008They even laid on a bandh!
So, first you have to know that a bandh is a general strike. Secondly, you have to understand the raw emotions raised by the thorny issue of water sharing between states in a primarily agricultural country. Lastly, you have to have followed the news dominating local papers here which have been full of the final determination of the Cauvery River tribunal. The Cauvery river rises in Karnataka, swings eastwards into Tamil Nadu before forking east and west into the Bay of Bengal and into Kerala respectively. The tribunal had made an interim judgement ten years ago which displeased everyone and led to communal violence. The latest ruling says that Karnataka government has to open its dams and release a major percentage of the water to the downstream states. The locals here in Karnataka are not best pleased.
We on the other hand were pretty much in ignorance of what this might mean to us and having said a final goodbye to Chris Wight, our travelling companion and chief photographer the night before, Maggie and I set off early from Mamallapuram, hours before dawn, to catch the 6:00am train from Chennai to Mysore. A mere seven hours later we were scheduled to roll into this hilltop home to the Maharajahs of Mysore State. All went well until we got to Bangalore at 11:00 when the carriage was invaded by porters announcing “Train cancelled, train cancelled!” We put it down to a bit of opportunism on their part but eventually we had the official announcement that our train would go no further. It seems that Monday’s bandh had been pre-empted by wildcat action such as placing huge rocks on the track.
We banded together with a young English backpacker and three Tamil travellers and commissioned a Sumo people mover vehicle to take us to Mysore. Again we made good progress, until we got some fifty miles away from Mysore. This time the road was blocked and we had to crash through the central reservation to take shelter in a little “service station”. The Tamil women were quite nervous and urged their male companion not to speak in Tamil as the Karnataka protesters might pick on them. We got some food and after half an hour, the traffic started again. Behind us on the Northbound carriageway, there were flaming barricades and after pushing our way back across into the Southbound lane, we started motoring again.
Our driver was a cross between Mad Max Gibson and Timo Mäkinen the Finnish rally driver. Several times we drove the wrong way down the dual carriageway into the face of the oncoming klaxon blaring, gaudily painted juggernaut lorries, as he tried to manoeuvre us into a ten-yard advantage over rival taxis. Again we were stopped by a line of protesters sitting down in the middle of the road, supervised by local police officers. Despite the heat we had to keep the windows closed because the Tamil women were afraid of stones being thrown at us. We were as calm and phlegmatic as you would expect from British adventurers although the little rivulet of urine down my trouser leg told its own story. Eventually, we were let through as they packed up the camping gear and rolled the rocks away, and we made it to Mysore without further complications.
On our arrival, we had a walk around the town which has a rich heritage of buildings from the days of the Raj and we saw some of the political campaigns getting underway - dont know who the mannequins in this picture are but they were coming in for some abuse.
While out walking today we met a septuagenarian Yank, decked out in bush hat and outlandishly wide shorts, secured with belt at roughly nipple level , who croaked to us that we should Leave Now, Leave while we have time, For God’s Sake, I’m not Joking, Bad Things are going to Happen Here etc etc. Well, it might be interesting and there might be some ructions but at the moment, it’s just legitimate political protest that’s planned. The police aren’t taking any chances and are massing by the bus station. Mind you, there were some violent outbursts last week in Bangalore, so we’ll have to be careful. We’ve stocked up on bottled water and bananas to survive the eight hours of closed restaurants - god knows how we’ll survive!
Anyway, we’re off out now for a walk in the gardens of the Maharajah of Mysore’s Palace. It’s a wonderful sight at night illuminated with thousands of watts worth of electric bulbs, so we are told. We visited the palace earlier today and it is an awe-inspiring building.
We’re stuck here now because the bandh tomorrow means all transport out is paralysed.
Back with news of our escape to the Nilgiri hills hopefully in a few days time.
UPDATE:
The bandh has gone off peacefully without any undue difficulties apart from having to order breakfast before 8:00 am. The weird thing was the absence of noise from vehicles, especially the auto-rickshaws which are a noisy everpresent feature of Indian city life. We were able to leave our windows open, and even walk in the deserted streets after our lunch of bananas and tea. Tomorrow we leave for the hill station of Ooty with maybe a diversion to a jungle retreat in Tamil Nadu. Depends on how the transport works out.